Cycling to office in Bangalore and nearby rides from the
city had their time in the sun. This time Pradeep and I wanted to do something
different. Something which will take us close to nature which would allow us to
explore hills, rivers, forests and beaches. Give our lungs a break from
pollution and a treat for our eyes. We knew that the exercise we would get is
just a fringe benefit.
We decided to explore the ever-green western Ghats. After
reading few blogs from fellow cyclists we identified a couple of routes and
finally narrowed down to Shimoga to Sringeri and Udupi.
| Our Route |
Got the cycle checked for health to sustain the 250Km
journey and packed the bags for the trip. We typically travel very light, total
of two sets of quick dry attire. No packaged foods. We eat on the go and strictly
stick to bottled water.
On the scheduled date 16th December 2017, we
cycled to Majestic bus stand and then loaded the cycles to Airavata bus as
luggage to Shimoga. On 17th
December 2017 at day break (6:30 AM), we started towards Tirthahalli. Shimoga
to Tirthahalli is 65 Km. The fog had set in and visibility was moderate, but
the layer of fog on the open fields was beautiful. Our first stop was at Gajnur
Dam. It’s a small dam where they allowed us to walk down right on top of the
gates. We could see vast stretch of reservoir filled up to the brim. Took a few
snaps and started cycling alongside Tunga river.
On the way from Shimoga to Tirthahalli
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View of Reservoir from Gajnur Dam
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Very quickly we reached Sakrebyle (14Km) which houses an
elephant camp. It is considered the best camp for training elephants in the
state. We also saw two trucks which were carrying elephants (perhaps to the
camp). We were a bit early, so we could not see the elephants bathing. There were
lots of kids on excursion to this place. The kids were happy to see Pradeep’s cycle
(Firefox RoadRunner) and showed very little interest in mine (Btwin Mybike)
We started towards Tirthahalli. A family in a Maruti Ertiga belonging
to Mr Shabbir saw us cycling and stopped for us. He mentioned that they are a
member of the Shimoga cycling club. They were very happy to see us cycle and
enquired about our itinerary. They were also bit unhappy about many fish
eateries that had sprung up on the road till Tirthahalli and were concerned
about lack of civic sense and rash/drinking and driving prevalent in that area.
All along the way we enjoyed the natural scenic beauty,
lakes, bridges and forest cover. At Tirthahalli we had breakfast at Mayura
hotel near the bus stand. We hogged Idly, Vada and coffee. Bought new water
bottles, made some calls home and started on towards Kuppalli.
Scenic Beauty on the way to Tirthahalli
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Tunga River
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The climb to Kuppalli has rolling terrain going mostly
uphill. The gradient sometimes went up to 15%. We were hydrating ourselves
quite a bit now. We took a slight deviation of 2km from the main route to reach
Kuppalli.
Kuppalli is the birth place of Rashtra Kavi Kuvempu. The
childhood home of Kuvempu has been converted into a museum by Rashtrakavi
Kuvempu Pratishtana (a trust dedicated to Kuvempu). This trust has undertaken
immense developmental works in Kuppali to showcase Kuvempu and his works to the
external world. The ancestral home is beautiful. Its old-school architecture with
courtyard is something I wish all our homes should have. You can even buy books
at this place. There is a small petty shop where you can get limited food. Poornachandra
Tejaswi (Son of Kuvempu) was also cremated at a nearby place. Very rare to find
father and son both being great scholars. We had a refreshing cup of buttermilk
and started back towards the main road heading towards Koppa. We did not visit
Kavishaila.
Kuvempu's House at Kuppalli
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Kuppalli to Koppa was perhaps the most difficult stretch on
our whole journey. Even though the distance betweekn Kuppalli and Koppa is only
11 Km, we took a lot of time to cover this distance. The Late afternoon sun was
beating down upon us and we were staring at relentless climbs which touched 22%
gradient. The greenery and breath taking views motivated us to chug along. Our
plan was to reach Koppa as early as possible and then have a relaxed lunch. We
also wanted to make sure that we reach Sringeri well before sunset. You see,
these highways are not well lit.
During a break on the way
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We had gone a couple of kilometers into Koppa town in search
of a decent restaurant. We had to cycle back to the point where we could turn
towards Sringeri. The initial climb was very steep, but after that the route to
Hariharapura was mostly downhill. After Hariharapura we again hit rolling
terrain where there was a mixed bag of ups and downs. Another last burst from
us helped to conquer the climb to Sringeri. It was well before sunset. We
roamed around the temple town cycling casually to reach our hotel, Advaita
Lancer. Its situated slightly away from the temple but it is nice and clean. We
quickly checked in, had a luke warm (would have loved hot) water bath and then
walked down to the temple. Had a good darshan, had good food. A day well spent.
Sunrise at Sringeri
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On 18th December 2017, we woke up early after a
good night’s sleep. Started again at day break 6:30 AM towards Agumbe. It was
pretty cold with chill head winds. All this, till the time the body got warmed
up. It’s a common route till Agumbe after which we decided to ride to Udupi
instead of Kundapura. This decision was based on the road condition information
provided by Mr Sridhar who is Pradeep’s friend and a localite. On the way to
Agumbe we passed through some breathtaking places. This place has abundance of
greenery. Cycling provided us the perfect synergy with nature as we felt that
we could not get this level of enjoyment if we were on a motor vehicle. The
best view comes after the hardest climb. J
We reached Agumbe pretty soon as we had rested well. We had breakfast at a
hotel in Agumbe bus stand. The bonda soup was outstanding.
Near Agumbe
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As you might know, Agumbe receives very high rainfall and is
sometimes called Cherapunji of the South. Its extremely green with great bio
diversity. Lot of research on rain forests, medicinal plants are done here.
Being a hot bed for king cobras, research on these reptiles are also done
extensively. Agumbe is a popular destination for bird watchers and
photographers. Many episodes of Malgudi Days were also shot here.
At sunset point, Agumbe
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We visited sunset point, took a few snaps, admired the depth
of the gorge and started towards Hebri. We saw a check post and alongside it
was a vast lake. The lake was beautiful and also had a few boats, but the water
was full of algae. The forest guard was thrilled to see us cycle there. It is
all downhill till Hebri. The cycle speed had to be controlled very carefully down
the hill. Also, we made sure that the rim did not get heated up too much as the
brake pads continuously rub the rim. The
view was brilliant. The joy of navigating through hair pin bends is amazing.
Thankfully the roads were good even after the heavy rains during monsoon.
Lake near Forest Guard office, Agumbe
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We were taking some breaks to check the Gujrat 2017 Assembly
election trends and results. We reached Hebri and continued cycling towards
Perdur. We had rolling terrain nothing as bad as what we had seen on day 1. We
reached Perdur fairly quickly.
There is a famous Anantha Padmanabha Temple in Perdur. Temple
devotees gave us a dozen of bananas which was Prasad from their Pooja. The
Admin folks from the temple were very accommodative. They allowed us to enter
the temple and attend the maha mangalarthi even though we were not in the
preferred attire (we were on cycling shorts and T-shirt). It’s a pretty old
temple. The temple folks offered us to have lunch and then move along. However,
we had other plans. We wanted to reach Udupi and have lunch there. The locals
suggested us to go to Udupi via Kalliyanpur instead of Manipal as the road is
better and there would be less traffic. As the kilometers to Udupi started decreasing,
the energy level started increasing. We went straight to Woodlands hotel. Had a
heavy and relaxed meal. It was a A/C restaurant so we chilled down quite a bit.
We changed over from cycling attire to something that would be acceptable at
the Udupi Temple and headed straight to the temple. There was a long queue to
the temple so we decided to go to Malpe beach for sun set and come back to the
temple later. It was a flat terrain of about 8 Km to Malpe which we covered
very quickly. Relaxed on a bench on the beach, took a couple of snaps during
sun set and headed straight back to the Temple. By this time the crowd had
thinned down. Made a quick visit to the temple. It was a special day due to Paush
Amavasya. The vigraha was adorned with Vajra (diamond) kavacha alankara. We
also heard that the sea would be very calm and many devotees take a dip on the
sea early in the morning. During this day (once a year) the sea would be like a
swimming pool (without waves).
Beautiful water body on the way
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Sunset at Malpe beach
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We called up our local friend Mr Sridhar who came down and
met us at the temple. From there we had dinner together. After dinner, we
headed straight to the KSRTC bus stand. Loaded the cycles as luggage and
crashed on the seats only to wake up at 5:30 AM on 19th December
2017 in Majestic, Bangalore. Offloaded the cycles and reached home in next 30
mins. After having hot water bath and breakfast, started to office.
The men
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All in all, this was an amazing trip. Total 250 Km. 120 Km
on Day1 and 115 Km on Day2. Rest was from home to Bus stand and back. Covering the
inclines on this route on a MTB was challenging but very satisfying. The
weather was brilliant. The roads were pretty good except small stretches where
some bridge work was going on. We saw many animals in their natural habitat
such as elephants, peacocks, various rare birds which I could not recognize
(but my photographer friends would have), mongoose, monkeys and umpteen number
of cows as we approached villages. Saw many lotus covered lakes with crystal
clear waters, backwaters, rivers and streams which were a treat to the eyes.
All this in one ride. Riding
with Pradeep is always a pleasure. I get to learn a lot every time we meet. I need to be thankful
for our families and friends to make this possible. Need to do more such get aways!
Hopefully there will be another such adventure soon.
Their machines, Firefox Roadrunner and Btwin Mybike
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